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Post by 65stang on Mar 16, 2012 8:10:23 GMT -5
I definitely agree about keeping things safe. Your right, its not difficult to pass safety inspection.
Good point about the insurance companies.
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Post by 65stang on Mar 16, 2012 8:15:58 GMT -5
I'd much rather use an Autolite Carb. I just do not like Holleys. I have an Edelbrock on mine abd have been happy with it. That's cool you have the correct intake. I think it would be awesome to get a stock 4 bbl intake and get an Autolite Carb to match.
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Post by EP429 on Mar 16, 2012 10:27:52 GMT -5
I still have my old 2100, it ran so nice it was kind of hard to upgrade to a 4bbl. Those Autolites are great
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 16, 2012 12:48:38 GMT -5
My Autolite 2100 need a serious overhaul because parts are missing. I'll probably put it back on in the future as I put more things back to stock, but I can get the Holley fixed for $25 in parts right now. I'll have to send the 2100 off to be repaired.
The more I find that is original on this car the more I want to keep it with a stock appearance. I might swap out the gears in the third member for a limited slip and 3.55 instead of 2.73 but no-one will see that.
I'll probably look for an original AM radio too since that's what it came with but hide a newer radio someplace unseen.
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Post by EP429 on Mar 16, 2012 13:08:45 GMT -5
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 16, 2012 13:56:04 GMT -5
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Post by EP429 on Mar 16, 2012 15:25:45 GMT -5
You could mount a non or barely functioning dash unit, hide a small amplifier & control it via IPod or some other MP3 device. Most have FM tuners with presets these days also.
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Post by 65stang on Mar 16, 2012 22:46:52 GMT -5
I don't care for hidden radios. You cant read the display, so ypu never know what its doing. I also really don't see the point to having a non functioning radio.
I have a slightly older Kenwood in mine. I kinda want an original looking radio. I like the look of the Custom Autosound, but they are junk. That Retro Sound one is a much better piece.
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Post by EP429 on Mar 16, 2012 23:28:56 GMT -5
Non functioning as in a dead but nice looking original Philco AM/FM, of course I'm not really in that market so I don't know how much a well functioning one would cost. Would be neat to have though. If I wanted to keep stock appearances but still enjoy my media, I'd use a similar setup
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Post by 65stang on Mar 17, 2012 9:57:08 GMT -5
If you want the original radio, this is the only way I would do it. I'd use an original am/fm and run a small amp and an iPod or similar device.
There was a guy or place on some of the Mustang forums that would put modern electronics in an original unit. That would be cool.
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 20, 2012 15:14:33 GMT -5
The hidden radio I posted has a display on the remote to tell you what it is doing.
Original working AM/FM radios for a 69 Mustang are in the $200 range. I have not found a non-working one yet.
I had seen the ads for upgrading the innards. I would only do it if I had a broken one since the working ones are so hard to find.
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 26, 2012 9:37:01 GMT -5
I did a lot of work Saturday. First I warmed up the car to do a compression test. After having some problems getting the tester to seat all the way and getting readings of 60 PSI on the first two cylinders I went back and tried again with more success. I thought it looked ok, but then I don't know too much so let me know what y'all think. This is a 302-2V cylinders 1 through 8 145, 145, 130, 145, 155, 155, 150, 145 Here are two of the spark plugs. They are Autolite and had the number 45 on them. I think they look ok for a car that was intentionally set to run rich. I'll fix that after rebuilding the carburetor.  My next step was to degrease and pressure wash the engine. I was able to read some more areas on the engine. There does not seem to be a VIN stamped on the block. The steering box buck tag says: SMB D 9A20B  I got the rebuild kit for the Holley 2300 in the mail last week along with a set of valve cover gaskets. Since I'm going to rebuild the carb, my fuel sender does not work, and the rubber lines connecting the steel gas lines are brittle I decided to drain the gas tank and start over with new gas. I thought it only had about 5 gallons in it but it kept going and going. I ended up with 15 gallons of old gas out of the car. My brother must have filled it up before he put it on the truck to me. While the gas was draining I decided to remove the gas cap and fill neck so I could look into the tank. I started getting worried when I saw the rubber connector between the neck and the tank was hard at the top and tore. The bottom was bulged out and soft enough to put your finger through. When I looked into the tank it looked like barnacles were growing in it like a pier at low tide. So now I'll be getting a new gas tank.  |
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 26, 2012 9:44:30 GMT -5
Oh and here is a picture of my helper.  |
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Post by gm4ever on Mar 26, 2012 10:40:47 GMT -5
Great pic! Again glad you are "training them right!"
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Post by EP429 on Mar 26, 2012 20:15:11 GMT -5
I have a bunch of that 3M strip caulk left over from my tank swap, it's yours if you need some
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 27, 2012 11:59:55 GMT -5
I have a bunch of that 3M strip caulk left over from my tank swap, it's yours if you need some Thanks! I'll take it.  I finished getting the rust off and repainting the valve covers last night. Some steps were from previous days. The steps are: pressure wash and degrease, aircraft stripper, the worst one is done with the wire wheel rust removal, painted.     It was really dusty here from tree pollen so I hope the finish doesn't show it too much under the hood. I'm almost afraid there are small pieces of wire wheel in the paint even though I wiped it all off with acetone before I painted. Next is the air cleaner and the oil fill cap. |
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Post by LukeWarm on Mar 27, 2012 22:40:05 GMT -5
Hi Ed - Your compression numbers look okay to me. I'd expect them to be around 135 on a non-hipo engine. You want them to be within 10% of each other.
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 28, 2012 0:31:46 GMT -5
Thanks! No idea what the calibration is on the gauge I used, but I'm happy. Pulled the carb tonight and the gauge harness to figure out what's with the resistor that was soldered in the ignition line before the coil. Then they had the choke connected straight to the ignition line, before the resistor. I also pulled the battery tray to clean it up and paint it. I'll be removing more stuff to get ready to paint the bay and block.    |
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Post by 63vair on Mar 28, 2012 7:56:19 GMT -5
Most old coils are designed to run lower voltage, maybe around 8v? Some cars like my Corvair have several feet of resistance wire in the harness to drop the voltage, others used an external resistor. There are some coils marked as 12v but I believe they have an internal resistor. I burned up a coil one time by useing it on my John Deere garden tractor. The coil needed an external resistor that the tractor didn't have.
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 28, 2012 9:30:13 GMT -5
Brewman,
Right, this model Mustang has/had a pink ignition wire under the dash that was a resistor wire. I suspect that somewhere along the way it may have been cut or bypassed to get full voltage to the engine bay to power the electric choke and then a resistor was added after the choke splice to go to the coil.
With a Pertronix coil and points replacement I can put 12V to the coil so I'm going to replace the harness and find a new ignition controlled power source for the choke with a cleaner install.
I'll test the voltage to the wire the way it is now before and after the resistor to see if the under-dash wire has been bypassed. I saw some splices under there but couldn't see an obvious pink wire and color fading may be at work too.
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Post by LukeWarm on Mar 28, 2012 10:20:25 GMT -5
Hi Ed..
Couple of suggestions
Check the points baseplate for wear before you install your Pertronix points replacement. The baseplate is inside the distributor. On Ford distributors, the vacuum advance arm connects to the top baseplate where the points are installed, and slides the points forward and backwards to advance/retard the timing. There is a post on the baseplate assembly where the top baseplate pivots. The pivot point can oval out, which makes it impossible to keep the points adjusted correctly. It would have the same effect on your Pertronix points replacement. If the pivot point is worn, buy a new baseplate from the Ford dealer. They’re cheap (at least the used to be).
You’ll need the resistor installed in the circuit and the car running in order to test the voltage before and after the resistor. If there isn’t any current running through the resistor, you’ll read the same voltage on both ends (Ohm’s Law at work).
I haven’t been a Chevy guy all my life. Hope this helps.
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Post by 63vair on Mar 28, 2012 10:39:02 GMT -5
Brewman, Right, this model Mustang has/had a pink ignition wire under the dash that was a resistor wire. I suspect that somewhere along the way it may have been cut or bypassed to get full voltage to the engine bay to power the electric choke and then a resistor was added after the choke splice to go to the coil. With a Pertronix coil and points replacement I can put 12V to the coil so I'm going to replace the harness and find a new ignition controlled power source for the choke with a cleaner install. I'll test the voltage to the wire the way it is now before and after the resistor to see if the under-dash wire has been bypassed. I saw some splices under there but couldn't see an obvious pink wire and color fading may be at work too. Good, just wanted to make sure you knew about that. It is always fun undoing someone elses electrical work  The more I think about it I don't think it was my fault the coil burned up on the tractor. I think the coil was already in the tractor when I rescued it. Someone else put a regular one on there, it did last for while. |
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 28, 2012 10:46:04 GMT -5
LukeWarm,
Thanks. I guess I could use my meter to measure resistance? Never really done that before. As you can see by my progress I won't have the car running for a while. The harness I have now is an unsightly mess with all the splices and I would like to replace it. I definitely do not want to mount that resistor to the frame support again.
I'll check the pivot. The plate seemed to move properly when vacuum was applied but I did not look under the points.
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Post by TexasEd on Mar 28, 2012 10:47:19 GMT -5
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Post by LukeWarm on Mar 28, 2012 10:58:04 GMT -5
Yep, you can measure the resistance with an ohm meter. I don't recall how much current an ignition system draws, but I'd guess that resistor is in the 0.5 to 1 ohm range.
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